Fashion & Textile History Gallery
May 25 – November 5, 2011
Online Exhibition
May 25 – November 5, 2011
Online Exhibition
Clothing for sporting activities has often influenced fashion—and vice versa. The
fact that casual everyday clothing is called sportswear in the apparel industry is
a testament to how comprehensively the development of specialist sports clothing has
shaped our ideas about clothing, observes fashion writer Jennifer Craik. Sporting Life explored this relationship between sportswear and fashion from the mid-19th century
through the present. Featuring more than 100 garments, accessories, and textiles from
the Museums permanent collection, the exhibition was organized thematically around
styles associated with sailing, swimming, golfing, skating, motoring, and other sporting activities.
The introductory gallery was dedicated to exercise and dance. During the nineteenth century, light exercise was recommended for the improvement
of physical well-being, beauty, and grace, thus the exhibition included a number of
women's gym wear garments, beginning with a bifurcated gymnasium suit, circa1896.
A Claire McCardell ensemble with matching striped Capezio ankle boots exemplified
stylish active wear of the mid-20th century, and a Norma Kamali sweatsuit from 1981
and an Isabel Toledo gym dress demonstrated the less rigid distinctions between fashion
and sport attire during the second half of the 20th century.
In the late 19th century, bicycling fashions were notable for the trouser-style garments designed for women. The divided
skirt of circa 1888 woman's tailored bicycling ensemble was designed for mobility
as well as modesty. Clothing for bicycling changed substantially during the 20th century,
as demonstrated by a 1985 mans competitive racing outfit utilizing stretch materials
and a streamlined design to maximize performance.
Hunting, one of the oldest sporting activities, has a number of distinct dress styles associated
with the privileged classes of the 18th and 19th centuries. These include the riding
coat, jodhpurs, dark tweed or tartan, and velvet hats. Hunting fashions blend style
and function, as a circa 1926 Norfolk suit demonstrated. Its relaxed style, first
introduced in the 1860s, was constructed to allow for ease of motion. Hunting garments
have inspired clothing designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Jean Paul Gaultier,
as well as shoe designers such as Manolo Blahnik, whose high-heeled shoes based on
classic utilitarian duck boots were also on view.
Textile innovations became a driving force in the active sportswear market of the
20th century. A 1930s wool ski suit, bearing the label Neva-Wet, an example of an early attempt at waterproofing,
seemed primitive next to the high-tech properties of Patagonia's Super Alpine nylon
ski ensemble from 1995. Synthetic materials utilized in active sportswear are being
increasingly used in fashion garments. Spandex is one example; another is neoprene,
a fabric commonly used in aquatic sports clothing like surfing. The exhibition paired a neoprene wetsuit with a sporty 1994 Donna Karan neoprene
dress.
Sportswear manufacturers have been responsible for many innovations in performance
apparel, while emphasizing fashionability. Meanwhile, recent runway collections have
featured adaptations of classic sports attire, such as the varsity baseball jacket, demonstrating that the sporting life continues to inspire fashion designers.
Sporting Life was organized by Jennifer Farley and Colleen Hill. For more information, read the press release.