A Closer Look: Highlights from Africa's Fashion Diaspora

Three brown mannequins dressed in blue ensembles. Left to right: female mannequin dressed in dark blue headwrap, light blue and white floor-length jacket, multi-colored patchwork crop top, and dark blue skirt with white grid pattern. Male mannequin dressed in light blue denim jacket and jeans with a white cotton flower print and light blue printed shirt. Female mannequin dress in a patterned blue denim coat.

Introduction to Africa's Fashion Diaspora

Curator Elizabeth Way introduces the listener to the Diasporic Crossings audio tour.

(R to L) Robert Young for The Cloth, Project Blue collection, indigo-dyed cotton top, skirt, and coat, 2019, Trinidad and Tobago. Museum purchase.
Tremaine Emory for Levis X Denim Tears, Late Capitalism collection, Cotton Wreath 501 jeans denim ensemble with cotton shirt, 2023, United States. Gift of Denim Tears,
Nkwo Onwuka for NKWO, Who Knew collection, “Coast jacket,” Dakala Cloth, spring 2019, Nigeria. Museum purchase,

Vertically-oriented, rectangular, dark yellow textile with red and black patterned border and interior oblong cartouche pattern

Reaching for Africa - “Angelina” Vlisco Print

Learn more about wax prints like this “Angelina” print from the Dutch textile manufacturer Vlisco.

Transcript

Vlisco, “Angelina” cotton wax print textile, 1969, Netherlands. Gift of Preston S. Schwarz, 99.19.8

Emperor Selassie I wearing a black military jacket with elaborate gold embroidered details, ribbons, medals, and green sash with ceremonial sword.

A Black Atlantic – Wales Bonner white tux

Emperor Haile Selassie I was an influential Pan-Africanist leader. Learn more about how he inspired menswear designer Grace Wales Bonner.

Transcript

Emperor Haile Selassie I in full dress, 1970. Public domain.

Homegoing – Telfar

Telfar Clemens makes a powerful statement on fashion's global circulation and waste, but also on African style, ingenuity, and upcycling with his Liberian Olympic Uniforms.

Transcript

Telfar, Telfar Team Liberia polyester jersey and track pants, 2021, United States, museum purchase. 2021.45.1

Beige mannequin wearing a V-neck black dress with an uneven hem that reaches to the ankles. It is embroidered with wavy and swirling lines of beads in silver, blue, and green.

Mothers and Motherlands

Fabrice Simon works with Haitian beaders to weave his home country's culture into his designs.

Transcript

Fabrice, beaded silk dress, 1980s, United States/Haiti. Gift of Stacey Fabrikant. 2021.60.3

Vice President Francia Márquez (a Black woman), stands at a microphone wearing her hair in braids coiled at the crown of her head with a blue dress.

History is Political – Esteban Africa

Learn more about Colombia's first Black vice presidnet, Francia Márquez, the young designer Esteban Sinisterra Paz, and their fashion diplomacy.

Transcript

Vice President Francia Márquez at the presidential inauguration in Bogotá, Colombia, August 7, 2022. USAID.

A Black man with chin length dreadlocks wears a brown and blue striped button down shirt, olive green and burgundy striped trousers, and white shoes against a turquoise background with a draped pink cloth.

Transcendent & Supernatural – Post Imperial/Lagos Space Programme

How is an old textile inspiring new fashion? Learn how Nigerian designers are reconceptualizing indigo-dyed Adire.

Transcript

Caption: Niyi Okuboyejo for Post-Imperial, Ajah Shirt and Ikeja pants designed with a patchwork technique inspired by the Baye Fall sect of Senegal, 2023. Photographer: Oluwaseye Olusa, model: Gladimy Fleurejuste

Black woman posing with large photo and computer, wearing purple coat, dress, and hat ensemble printed with images of family members

Monumental Cloth – Thebe Magugu

South African designer Thebe Magugu made his family the stars of his spring 2022 collection. Listen to how his custom textile captures his family history.

Transcript

Thebe Magugu, Heirloom Parka, Heirloom Blouse & Heirloom Pleated Skirt, Spring 2022. Photography: Paul Samuels. DOP: Jacob Claassens. Set Design + Styling: Chloe Andrea Welgemoed

Brown mannequin wearing a blue jacket with striped details of alternating light and dark blue stripes and is decorated with white fringe and black, blue, and orange beads.

Tun yuh han mek fashion – NKWO

Fashion can be a force for good, both environmentally and socially. Learn how designer Nkwo Onwuka uses fashion to empower.

Transcript

Nkwo Onwuka for NKWO, Who Knew collection, “Coast jacket,” Dakala Cloth, spring 2019, Nigeria. Museum purchase. 2023.8.1

Beige mannequin with a V-neck sleeveless dress in green, red, yellow, and purple stripes with a radish print.

Ubuntu – Stella Jean

Learn about the British design both Anna Wintour and Princess Diana loved.

Transcript

Stella Novarino for Stella Jean, cotton ikat and radish print dress, spring 2016, Italy. Museum purchase. 2019.53.1