Bibliography

Exhibition Book

Way, Elizabeth. Africa's Fashion Diaspora. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2024.

Selected Resources by Subject

The following are some resources that informed Africa’s Fashion Diaspora. It is not an exhaustive list, but a starting point for those interested in further research.
  1.  African Fashion Research Institute, https://afri.digital/
  2. Fashion and Race Database (institutional subscription needed),
    https://fashionandrace.org
  3. Fashioning the Self in Slavery and Freedom, https://www.fashioningtheself.com/
  4. The Black Atlantic Museum, https://afterallartschool.org/blackatlantic/
  5.  The Costume Institute of the African Diaspora, https://ciad.org.uk/ 
  1. Ajah, Richard Oko and Letitia Egege. “Deconstructing the Ivorian Testamentary Traditions: New Fashion, Contemporary Beauty and New Identity in Marguerite Abouet
    and Clement Oubrerie’s Aya de Youpougon.” Wagadu: A Journal of Translational Women’s and Gender Studies 18 (2017): 55-80.
  2. Akou, Heather. “Building a New ‘World Fashion’: Islamic Dress in the Twenty-first Century.” Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 11, no. 4, (2007): 403-421.
  3. Allman, Jean. Fashioning Africa: Power and the Politics of Dress. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2004.
  4. Archer-Straw, Petrine. Negrophilia: Avant-Garde Paris and Black Culture in the 1920s. London: Thames & Hudson, 2000.
  5. Cheang Sarah, Erica de Greef and Takagi Yoko. Rethinking Fashion Globalisation. London: Bloomsbury, 2021.
  6. Craik, Jennifer. The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion. London: Routledge, 1994.
  7. Deul, Janice. “From Columbus to Kardashian – why cultural appropriation is so awfully problematic.” Second Marjan Unger Lecture, Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. Vimeo video (46:03). 2021.
    https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/whats-on/lectures-symposiums/marjan-unger-lecture/join-the-livestream
  8. Deul, Janice. “Use the power of fashion for a more inclusive world.” TEDx Talks. Youtube video (10:37). February 4, 2015. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmtYlOM0TM&t=302s.
  9. Dolat, Sunny. Not African Enough: A Fashion Book. Nairobi: Nest Arts Company Limited, 2017.
  10. Dosekun, Simidele. “Editorial: The Politics of Fashion and Beauty in Africa.” Feminist Africa 21 (September 2016): 1-6.
  11. Edmunds, Alexander. “Triumphant Miscegenation: Reflections on Beauty and Race in Brazil.” Journal of Intercultural Studies 28, no. 1 (February 2007): 83-97.
  12. Elung’Ata Imo, Beatrice. "Adoption of the Kenya national dress as a basis for developing a decision-making model for the local industry: a case of Nairobi, Kenya." PhD diss. Kenyatta University, Kenya, 2013.
  13. Ford, Tanisha C. Liberated Threads: Black Women, Style, and the Global Politics of Soul. Durham: ‎The University of North Carolina Press, 2015.
  14. Gott, Suzanne and Kristine Loughran. Contemporary African Fashion. Bloomington and Indianapolis: Indiana University Press, 2010.
  15. Gott, Suzanne, Kristyne S. Loughran, Betsy D. Quick, and Leslie W. Rabine. African‑Print Fashion Now! A Story of Taste, Globalization, and Style. Los Angeles: Fowler Museum at UCLA, 2017. 
  16. Gott, Suzanne. “Asante Hightimers and the Fashionable Display of Women’s Wealth in Contemporary Ghana.” Fashion Theory 13, no. 2 (2009): 141-176. 
  17. Hebdige, Dick. Subculture: The Meaning of Style. London: Routledge, 1979.
  18. Jansen, Angela and Jennifer Craik. Modern Fashion Traditions: Negotiating Tradition and Modernity Through Fashion. London: Berg Publishers, 2016.
  19. Jansen, Angela and Toby Slade. “Letter from the Editors: Decoloniality and Fashion.” Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 24, no. 6. (Special Issue: Decoloniality and Fashion 2020): 809-814. 
  20. Jansen, Angela. “Decolonising Fashion: Defying the ‘White Man’s Gaze.’” Vestoj, 2019, https://vestoj.com/decolonialising-fashion/ 
  21. Jennings, Helen. New African Fashion. Munich: Prestel, 2011
  22. Kaiser, Susan B. and Sarah Rebolloso McCullough. “Entangling the Fashion Subject Through the African Diaspora: From Not to (K)not in Fashion Theory.” Fashion Theory 14, no. 3 (2010): 361-386. 
  23. Kasibe, Wandile Goozen. “Revisiting identities/positionalities in a changing South African socio- and geopolitical climate.” Litnet, September 2, 2006. https://www.litnet.co.za/revisiting-identities-positionalities-in-a-changing-south-african/
  24. Knowles, Katie. “The Fabric of Fast Fashion: Enslaved Wearers and Makers as Designers in the American Fashion System.” In Black Designers in American Fashion, edited by Elizabeth Way, 13-28. London: Bloomsbury, 2021. 
  25. Ky, Laetitia. Love and Justice: A Journey of Empowerment, Activism, and Embracing Black Beauty. New York: Princeton Architectural Press, 2022.
  26. Le Fort, Clara. Africa Rising: Fashion, Design and Lifestyle from Africa. Berlin: Gestalten, 2016. 
  27. McClendon, Alphonso D. Fashion and Jazz: Dress, Identity and Subcultural Improvisation. London: Bloomsbury, 2015.
  28. McGregor, JoAnn, Heather Akou, and Nicola Stylianou, Creating African Fashion Histories. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2022.
  29. McGregor, JoAnn, Heather M. Akou and Nicola Stylianou. Creating African Fashion Histories: Politics, Museums, and Sartorial Practices. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2022. 
  30. McKinley, Catherine E. The African Lookbook: A Visual History of 100 years of African Women. New York: Bloomsbury Publishing Inc, 2021.
  31. Miller, Monica L. Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. Durham: Duke University Press, 2009.
  32. Nichols, Elizabeth. "Decent Girls with Good Hair: Beauty, Morality, and Race in Venezuela.” Feminist Theory 14, no. 2 (2013): 171-185.
  33. Nwigwe, Chukwuemeka. “Fashioning Terror: The Boko Haram Dress Code and the Politics of Identity.” Fashion Theory 23, no. 4 (2019): 495-514.
  34. Ogunyankin, Grace Adeniyi. “’These Girls’ Fashion is Sick!’: An African City and the Geography of Sartorial Worldliness.” Feminist Africa 21 (September 2016): 37-51.
  35. Pettersson, Per-Anders. African Catwalk. Heidelberg: Kehrer, 2016. 
  36. Pool, Hannah Azieb. Fashion Cities Africa.  Bristol: Intellect, 2016.  
  37. Rabine, Leslie W. The Global Circulation of African Fashion. London: Berg, 2002.
  38. Richards, Christopher L. Cosmopolitanism and Women’s Fashion in Ghana History, Artistry and Nationalist Inspirations. New York: Routledge, 2022.
  39. Rovine, Victoria L. “Colonialism's Clothing: Africa, France, and the Deployment of Fashion,” Design Issues 25, no. 3 (summer 2009): 44-61.
  40. Rovine, Victoria. African Fashion, Global Style: Histories, Innovations, and Ideas You Can Wear. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2015.
  41. Smith, Shawn Michelle. Photography on the Color Line: W.E.B. DuBois, Race, and Visual Culture. Durham: Duke University Press, 2004. 
  42. Snorton, C. Riley. Black on Both Sides: A Racial History of Trans Identity. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2017.
  43. Tranberg Hansen, Karen and D. Soyini Madison. African Dress: Fashion, Agency Performance. London: Bloomsbury, 2013.
  44. Tulloch, Carol. “Style—Fashion—Dress: From Black to Post-Black.” Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 14, no. 3 (2015): 273-303.
  45. Tulloch, Carol. The Birth of Cool Style Narratives of the African Diaspora. London: Bloomsbury, 2016.
  46. Vitra Design Museum. “Interview with Okwui Enwezor.” YouTube video (13:54). March 12, 2015. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khNz6rWTSOU.
  47. Walker, Tamara J. Exquisite Slaves: Race, Clothing, and Status in Colonial Lima. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2017.
  48. Way, Elizabeth. “Race and Ethnicity: Strands of the Diaspora.” In A Cultural History of Hair in the Age of Empire, edited by Sarah Heaton, 117-138. London: Bloomsbury, 2021.
  49. White Shane and Graham White. Stylin’: African American Expressive Culture from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit. Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1998.
  50. Yta, Edisua Merab. “Changing Meanings in Patterns of Efik Women Hair Styles.” A Journal of Theatre & Media Studies (Dept. of Theatre and Media Studies University of Calabar) 1, no. 2, (2016): 192-207.
  1. Boateng, Boatema. The Copyright Thing Doesn’t Work Here: Adinkra and Kente Cloth and Intellectual Property in Ghana. Minneapolis and London: University of Minnesota Press, 2011.
  2. Breward, Christopher. “Avis Charles: Aspects of a Conversation.” Fashion Theory 14, no. 3 (2009): 355-360.
  3.  Calahan, April and Cassidy Zachary. “Founding Father of Haute Couture: Charles Frederick Worth.” Dressed: The History of Fashion podcast, February 27, 2018. https://www.iheart.com/podcast/105-dressed-the-history-of-fas-29000690/episode/founding-father-of-haute-couture-charles-29090649/
  4. Camerlengo, Laura L., Patrick Kelly Runway of Love. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2021.
  5. Cheang, Sarah. “‘To The Ends of The Earth’: Fashion and Ethnicity in The Vogue Fashion Shoot.” In Fashion Media Past and Present, edited by Djurdja Bartlett, Shaun Cole, and Agnès Rocamora, 35-45. London: Bloomsbury Education, 2013.
  6. Deihl, Nancy. “Zelda Wynn Valdes: Uptown Modiste.” In The Hidden History of American Fashion, edited by Nancy Deihl, 223-236. London: Bloomsbury, 2018.
  7. Dobbin, Frank and Alexandra Kalev. “Why Diversity Programs Fail.” Harvard Business Review, July/August 2016. https://stratserv.co/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Why-Diversity-Programs-Fail.pdf
  8. “Fashion Industry Statistics And Trends in 2023.” Gitnux, March 21, 2023. https://blog.gitnux.com/diversity-in-the-fashion-industry-statistics/
  9. Friedman, Vanessa, Salamishah Tillet, Elizabeth Paton, Jessica Testa, and Evan Nicole Brown. “The Fashion World Promised More Diversity. Here’s What We Found.” New York Times, March 4, 2021. https://www.nytimes.com/2021/03/04/style/Black-representation-fashion.html
  10. Hughes, Harriet. “Performing Postcolonial Identity: The Spectacle of Lagos Fashion Week.” International Journal of Fashion Studies 9 (Special Issue: Decolonizing Fashion As Process 2022): 281-298.
  11. “Hylan Booker in conversation with Christine Checinska.” At Home: Artists in Conversation Hylan Booker. Youtube video (53:12). March 18 2022. https://britishart.yale.edu/videos/home-artists-conversation-hylan-booker
  12. Lewis, Van Dyk. “Dilemmas in African Diaspora Fashion.” Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 7, no. 2 (2003): 163-190.
  13. Vincent, Louise. “Steve Biko and Stoned Cherrie: Refashioning the Body Politic in Democratic South Africa,” African Sociological Review 11, no. 2 (2007): 80-93.
  14. Way, Elizabeth. “Elizabeth Keckly and Ann Lowe: Recovering an African American Fashion Legacy That Clothed the American Elite.” Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 19 no. 1 (2015): 115-141.
  15. Way, Elizabeth. Black Designers in American Fashion. London: Bloomsbury, 2021.
  16. Yvhane, Cheick. Pathé’O De Fil en Aiguille: Biographie d’Un Grand Ambassadeur de la Mode Africaine. Abidjan: Les Classiques Ivoiriens, 2021.
  1. Avery, Victoria and Jake Subryan Richards. Black Atlantic: Power, People, Resistance. Dublin: Philip Wilson, 2023.
  2. DuPlessis, Robert S. The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650-1800. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2016.
  3. Gilroy, Paul. The Black Atlantic: Modernity and Double Consciousness. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1993.
  4. Hall, Stuart and David Morley. Essential Essays Vol. 2. Durham and London: Duke University Press, 2019.
  5. Magee, Carol. Africa in the American Imagination: Popular Culture, Racialized Identities, and African Visual Culture. Jackson: University of Mississippi Press, 2012.
  6. Mercer, Kobena. Welcome to the Jungle. London and New York: Routledge, 1994.
  7. Mintz, Sidney W. and Richard Price. The Birth of African-American Culture: An Anthropological Perspective. Boston: Beacon Press 1992.
  8. Newkirk, Pamela. Diversity, Inc. The Failed Promise of a Billion-Dollar Business. New York: PublicAffairs, 2019.
  9. Nweke, Kizito Chinedu and Ikenna Paschal Okpaleke. “The Re-Emergence of African Spiritualties: Prospects and Challenges.” Transformation 36, no. 4 (2019): 246–65.
  10. Nweke, Kizito Chinedu. “Sieving out the Relevance of African Spiritualities in a Globalised Contemporary World.” An International Journal 18 (2020): 42-60.
  11. Sarr, Felwaine.  Afrotopia. Minneapolis and London: University of Minnesota Press, 2016.
  12. Scacchi, Anna and Annalisa Oboe. Recharting the Black Atlantic Modern Cultures, Local Communities, Global Connections. Milton Park, UK: Taylor & Francis, 2011.
  13. Thompson, Krista. “A Sidelong Glance: The Practice of African Diaspora Art History in the United States.” Art Journal 70, no. 3 (fall 2011): 6-31.
  14. Trouillot, Michel-Rolph. Silencing the Past: Power and the Production of History. Boston: Beacon, 2015. 
  1. Bloemberg, Ninke, Janice Deul, and Anne-Karlijn van Kesteren, Voices of Fashion Black Couture, Beauty & Styles. Zwolle, Netherlands: Waanders Publishers, 2022.
  2. Checinska, Christine. Africa Fashion. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 2022.
  3. de Greef, Erica. “Curating Fashion as Decolonial Practice: Ndwalane’s Mblaselo and a Politics of Remembering,” Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 24, no. 6 (July 31, 2020): 901-920.
  4. Friedman, Vanessa. “The Incredible Whiteness of the Museum Fashion Collection.” New York Times, September 29, 2020. https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/29/style/museums-fashion-racism.html 
  1. Akinwumi, Tunde M. “The “African Print” Hoax: Machine Produced Textiles Jeopardize African Print Authenticity.” The Journal of Pan African Studies 2, no.5 (July 2008): 179-192.
  2.  Akrofi, M., Ocran, S.P., and Acquaye, R. “Decoding the Symbolism of Bogolanfini, Korhogo, and Fon Fabrics.” African Journal of Applied Research 2, no. 3 (October 2016): 59-72. 
  3. Areo, Margaret Olugbemisola and Razaq Olatunde Rom Kalil. “Origin of and Visual Semiotics in Yoruba Textile of Adire.” Art and Design Studies 12 (2013). 
  4. Aronson, Lisa. “Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century.” Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceeding of the Biannual Symposium of the Textile Society of America (September 1994): 31-37. 
  5. Aronson, Lisa. “History of Cloth Trade in the Niger Delta: A Study of Diffusion.” Textile History 11, no. 1 (1980): 89-107.
  6. Byfield, Judith. The Bluest Hands: A Social and Economic History of Women Dyers in Abeokuta (Nigeria), 1890-1940. London: Heinemann, 2002.
  7. Davis, Marian. “Akwete Cloth and Its Motifs.” African Arts 7, no. 3 (1974): 22-25. 
  8. Gillow, John. African Textiles: Color and Creativity Across the Continent. London: Chronicle Books, 2003. 
  9. Lamb, Venice and Judy Holmes. Nigerian Weaving. Lagos: Shell Petroleum Development Company, 1980.
  10. Okeke, C. S. “Factors Which Influenced Igbo Traditional Woven Designs for Apparel Fabrics.” Textile History 8 no. 1, (1977): 116-130.
  11. Ross, Doran H. Wrapped in Pride: Ghanaian Kente and African American Identity. Los Angeles: UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History. 
  12. Square, Jonathan Michael. “Sporting Kente Cloth.” The Fashion and Race Database, April 6, 2022. https://fashionandrace.org/database/sporting-kente-cloth/.

 

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