Behind the Scenes

Planning for Asian Americans in New York Fashion: Design, Labor, Innovation started in spring 2021. New York City and the world were still in the midst of coping with the COVID-19 pandemic, as well as anti-Asian hate crimes. In response, the students wanted to showcase Asian American fashion designers because we are proud of the community’s accomplishments. Our hope is to offer a stronger voice in opposition to the hostile acts of racism that are ongoing today.

During the summer of 2021, the students pursued in-depth research on historical time periods relating to Asian American fashion, labor and activism, as well we specific fashion designers. This research provided the foundation for the conceptual framework of the exhibition.;

The Fall 2021 semester was a pivotal time to utilize the summer’s research to further refine the concept and decide on the organization of the exhibition. The students voted to adopt an object-based approach to exemplify the thematic aspects of design, materials, and innovation. The object research and interpretation teams visited the Special Collections at FIT’s Gladys Marcs library to identify relevant paper objects.

Unite Magazine — Unite! (trade magazine), 1995, Vol. 1, No. 2. Special Collections, FIT Collection #HD6350.C6 U55. Photograph taken on October 16, 2021.

The decision-making process for selecting garments and accessories was based on object viewing sessions at The Museum at FIT (MFIT) and a class voting process. This democratic process allowed students from various teams to have a voice in the multi-faceted aspects of the exhibition planning. The objects were viewed hanging and placed on tables to observe the design details, materials, construction, and silhouette.

The class enjoyed viewing the objects to be selected. This Gemma Kahng jacket was shown by MFIT partner, curator Elizabeth Way. Photograph taken on October 5, 2021. The Museum at FIT, 2002.56.3, gift of Linda Tain.

Vera Wang dress viewing — The class views an evening dress designed by Vera Wang, 1998. Photograph taken on September 21, 2021. The Museum at FIT, 2014.21.1, gift of Carla La Monte.

The student design team produced mock-ups of the gallery space to illustrate the flow of exhibition themes. The image below shows the Materials section near the beginning of the exhibition before it transitions into the rear gallery. The placement of each object was carefully considered to support the exhibition narrative. The students on the design team received class input and proposed the lay-out to MFIT colleagues.

materials used in an innovative manner — The Materials section shows how fashion designers use different materials in an innovative manner.

The graduate students collaborated with MFIT staff in all phases of the exhibition planning and design process, including curators, conservators, the MFIT digital media manager, and members of the education and exhibitions departments. December 14, 2021, the last day of class during the fall semester was a busy and productive one. The students viewed different formats for the designer quotes to be projected in the gallery. The MFIT staff is integral in teaching the students the practice of curation. For example, a label writing workshop was given by one of the MFIT partners.

The class views projection samples of designer quotes in the gallery. Photograph taken on December 14, 2021.

A label writing workshop was given by one of the MFIT partners on December 14, 2021.

The Winterim 2022 break was filled with preparations to ensure the successful opening of the exhibition in March. One of the conservation students, Alexandra Blach, worked with MFIT conservators to inspect and document the garments in advance to determine any issues that might prohibit exhibition display. Alexandra is dressing the Jussara Lee gown on a mannequin with the assistance of an MFIT partner.

Jussara Lee gown on mannequin — A conservation student, Alexandra Blach, dresses the Jussara Lee gown on a mannequin with the assistance of MFIT partner Thomas Synnamon, MFIT’s museum installation assistant. Photograph taken on January 31, 2022

The beginning of the spring 2022 semester is a fast-track to complete a multitude of tasks for the opening on March 2, 2022. Jaya Misra from the design team works closely with a MFIT partner to inspect the fabric that will be used in the exhibition.

Jaya Misra working with MFIT partner — Jaya Misra from the design team works with a MFIT partner. Photograph was taken on February 7, 2022.

A close-up image of the Linda Kinoshita label that reflects her historical significance as a New York-based Asian designer. Photograph taken on September 21, 2021.

Yeoklee Teng tunic with sequins — A close-up of materials of the Yeohlee Teng tunic that was displayed on the table for object viewing. Photograph taken on October 5, 2022. The Museum at FIT, 99.43.2, gift of Yeohlee Teng, New York.

Thakoon dress — Thakoon Dress, Resort 2009. The viewing of this included examining the construction of the underlayers. This pastel-colored dress is made from a wool and silk blend. The Museum at FIT, 2019.71.1, gift of Veronica Webb. Photograph taken on September 21, 2021.

Prabal Garung dress — Prabal Gurung dress, Spring 2012. Michelle Obama wore a similar dress at the Democratic Convention in 2009. The materials are polyester and silk. The Museum at FIT, 2009.20.1, museum purchase. Photograph taken on September 21, 2021.

back gallery north wall — This mock-up for the north wall of the rear shows the final placement for the solo and paired ensembles.

paint samples — The design team researches different shades of blue to be used for the exhibition platforms.

Vivian Tam tiger dress — Vivienne Tam is known for incorporating Chinese iconography into Western silhouettes. The materials are nylon and jersey. Photograph taken on October 19, 2021. The Museum at FIT, 98.50.1, gift of Vivienne Tam.

You Can't Fake Fashion bag — The class views the handbag designed by Rafe Totengco for the CFDA’s 2013 campaign, “You Cannot Fake Fashion.” Photograph taken on October 5, 2021. The Museum at FIT, 2014.37.4, gift of eBay.