Fashion & Textile History Gallery
June 3 – November 15, 2014
Online Exhibition | Exhibition blog
As the final barrier to the nude body, lingerie is simultaneously modest and erotic,
and it remains a subject of enduring fascination. The design of lingerie enhances
its allure: it strategically reveals, conceals, and highlights the wearers form. As
French lingerie designer Chantal Thomass observed, The essence and attitude of lingerie
is all in suggestion.
Exposed: A History of Lingerie traced developments in intimate apparel from the 18th century to the present. There
are two types of lingerie, hard and soft. Hard lingerie includes corsets, bustles,
and structured bras, while soft lingerie consists of unstructured garments, such as
slips, nightgowns, and panties. As the relationship between dress and the body has
been redefined over time, so too have the function and appearance of lingerie.
Iris nightgown, printed nylon, c. 1950, USA, gift of Mrs. A. S. Guimares, 75.183.80.
Claire McCardell evening dress, printed nylon, 1950, USA, gift of Mr. and Mrs. Adrian
McCardell, 72.61.182.
The concept of underwear-as-outerwear is most commonly associated with the 1980s,
but the look of lingerie has long served as inspiration for fashion garments. Exposed opened with several pairings of objects that underscore that connection. A nylon
nightgown by lingerie label Iris was shown alongside an evening gown by Claire McCardell,
created in a similar fabric and silhouette. Both date from the 1950s.
Corset (stay), silk, silk ribbon, whalebone, c. 1770, possibly Europe, Museum purchase,
P82.1.16.
Peignoir (morning robe), embroidered wool, c. 1878, USA, gift of Florence Anderson
and Mary A. Seymour, 80.1.5.
Saks Fifth Avenue camiknickers, crepe chiffon, silk satin, c. 1924, France, Museum
purchase, P86.63.5.
The exhibition continued chronologically. A corset from circa 1770, made from sky
blue silk, was the earliest object on view. While corsets were essential to maintaining
both a woman's figure and her modesty, they also held an erotic allure. Many 19th-century
undergarments were characterized by their modest designs and humble materials, but
by the early 20th century, intimate apparel was often as beautiful and seductive as
it was functional, a concept that was epitomized by colorful petticoats and opulent
tea gowns. Meanwhile, many styles of underclothing were becoming more streamlined,
corresponding to the slimmer silhouettes of outer garments. Elasticized girdles had
replaced constricting corsets by the 1920s, while bras, slips, and even lounging apparel
also took new, modern forms.
Poirette overwire bra, nylon lace, stretch satin, 1949, USA, gift of Bestform Inc.,
2000.89.15 / Christian Dior petticoat, nylon net, horsehair net, silk taffeta, 1951,
France, gift of Despina Messinesi, 75.86.5B.
Lady Marlene bustier, lace, jersey, satin, boning, c. 1988, USA, gift of Ady Gluck-Frankel,
93.159.65.
Suki Cohen (Sarah Cohen) bodysuit and bolero jacket, stretch nylon, neoprene, 2014,
Columbia, gift of Suki Cohen, 2014.11.1 & 2014.11.2.
During the 1950s, the return of the hourglass silhouette demanded more rigid foundation
garments, such as corsets and stiff tulle petticoats. These styles were directly contrasted
in the following decade, when unstructured lingerie in featherweight fabrics was worn
to complement revealing, youth-driven clothing styles. The 1980s saw a return to luxurious
undergarments, such as lacy teddies and provocative bustiers, which were often inspired
by designs of the past. While sexy, high-end labels such as Agent Provocateur and
La Perla thrive in the 21st century, the expanding lingerie market offers styles for
every woman, from classic to fashion-forward, comfortable to overtly seductive.
Exposed: A History of Lingerie was organized by Colleen Hill, associate curator at The Museum at FIT. A book accompanying
the exhibition is available from Yale University Press, and features over 70 full-color photos of objects featured in the exhibition.
For more info about the exhibition, read the press release.